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May 18 2017 5 18 /05 /May /2017 18:23

A battery is a container for chemical reaction that produces electrical energy measured in volts. Sealed lead acid batteries (SLAs) are made of cells. Each cell produces about two volts. A six-volt battery has three cells and a 12-volt Milwaukee M12B2 battery has six.


Sealed lead acid batteries are used when high power is needed and weight and cost are lesser factors.


What an SLA can power and how long it will last depends on voltage and amp-hours. Voltage is a measurement of electrical strength. An amp-hour (Ah) measures stored usable energy. A six-volt battery has a lower Ah capacity than a 12-volt Milwaukee  48-11-2411 drill battery.


Two six-volt batteries can be wired to equal a 12-volt battery. Batteries wired in series can be charged to the capacity of the weakest battery. Batteries wired in parallel will equalize the charge, with higher charges flowing to lesser charges until equalized. SLAs generally take six to 18 hours to charge.


The heavier plate structures within each cell of the six-volt battery compared to the cells in the 12-volt battery contribute to longer life in deep charge and discharge cycles. Batteries used in deep-cycle service average four to eight years of life.


Six-volt batteries weigh less than 12-volt Milwaukee 48-11-2420 tool batteries and can be handled more easily by one person. This is often a significant decision-making element when considering a six-volt vs.12-volt battery.

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May 14 2017 1 14 /05 /May /2017 00:00

Many people spend money unnecessarily replacing TOSHIBA Satellite P750 batteries when they may have fixed the issue with a simple battery reset or a Drivers update. If you are having problems charging your laptop battery, then reading this post may save you a lot of time, money and frustration!

Batteries do have a finite lifespan (600-1000 charges/ discharges or about 2 years depending on intensity of use) and they can be very expensive to replace, so before throwing out that battery (in an environmentally-appropriate manner of course!), ensure that it has actually reached the end of its life and there isn’t some other problem preventing it from charging.
Fix 1: Battery Reset

To reset your laptop battery you will need to run the TOSHIBA PA5013U-1BRS battery down completely. Make sure all work is saved as you will run the battery down until the system shuts off. When this happens you should plug in the power cable but DO NOT turn back on the laptop. Wait until you are confident the battery is back to a full charge again and then turn on your laptop.

If this method does not fix your recharging issue then you can try to fix or update your laptop battery drivers by uninstalling and reinstalling them (make sure to create a ‘restore point’ in System Restore before manually updating Drivers files). You can use a Driver Update Tool to keep all your Drivers up-to-date if you prefer not to attempt this manually.
Fix 2: Update Drivers

You will need to uninstall and reinstall the relevant device drivers via the Device Manager.

– Select Start > (right-click) My Computer > Properties

– Select the Hardware tab

– Select the Device Manager Button

– Under Batteries right-click “Microsoft ACPI-Compliant Control Method Battery” and click Uninstall

Your battery should no longer be visible in the Batteries list. To reinstall it you will need to:

– Select Action menu

– Select Scan for hardware changes

– Your driver should be listed again

You can use a driver update tool to automatically update your Drivers if you are unsure of which ones you require. Driver errors can also occur when the Driver is outdated. For this reason it is necessary to regularly update your Drivers. The easiest way to do this is by using a Driver update tool but you could also search for and download the drivers yourself.

Test your Toshiba battery for laptop now and if there is still a problem charging, then it may have just reached the end of its’ days and it is time to part company!

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May 11 2017 5 11 /05 /May /2017 21:29

It's sensible to attempt to recondition your 18V battery for power tool before going for the expensive option of purchasing a replacement, if your drill battery pack contains nickel cadmium cells (NiCad). If it contains lithium ion (Li-ion) cells you need to get it reconditioned using a battery repair store as Li-ion battery packs needs specialist attention. An 18V NiCad drill battery contains 15 cells, each producing 1.2 volts. You may find that after some time the battery doesn't operate for long between charges, so following a simple but effective procedure reconditions the cells in the drill battery.

Make sure your battery appears fully charged before starting the procedure of reconditioning your 18V drill battery. Put it on charge in the usual way until the charger indicates it's fully charged.

Place the 18V drill battery into the power drill. Secure the drill in a vice as you need to turn it on and let it run continuously. This means you don't have to hold the drill during the discharge process.

Turn on the power drill. Allow it to operate for as long as it takes to initially discharge the Bosch power tool battery. Turn off the power drill once it's stopped operating. The drill and battery are hot so let them cool completely; about half an hour is usually fine.

Turn on the drill again. You find that although it stopped operating half an hour ago it starts up again. It runs slowly, but let it run until it stops. Let the battery and power drill rest, then repeat the process until the drill won't operate. The battery is fully discharged once the power drill won't turn on. The process of fully discharging the battery breaks down crystals in the 15 NiCad cells and restores them to the size they were when you first purchased your drill. The smaller the crystals, the more energy they can retain.

Remove the drill and battery from the vice once cool. Detach the battery from the drill and put it in the charger. Turn on the charger and allow it to charge. It will take three or four times longer than previously as the reconditioned battery for cordless drill can hold more energy.

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April 27 2017 5 27 /04 /April /2017 11:47

I started this project out of a desire to keep my phone working on long bike tours. I needed a lightweight, inexpensive battery to put on my touring bike. Unfortunately, the lithium battery I needed costs 200 dollars new. Add a charger and powersupply and that's another 100 dollars. Batteryspace is my favorite place to get anything battery related online. You can see a comparable battery here . Thanks to some good luck, I was able to cobble together an 8 amp hour battery for about 100 dollars. This project takes a lot of soldering. You don't have to be super skilled; just tin a bunch of wires, and soldering the PCB is pretty easy.

I use this one on my bike for a headlight, tail light, radio, and cell phone charger.

If the batteries are the heart of the Li-ion Rockwell WA3525 battery, then the PCB is the brain. This is the one I used. It was 6.50 at Batteryspace. It was easy to solder wires on the PCB. It is designed to stop solder from spilling onto the rest of the board.

PCBs come indifferent varieties depending on number of cells, voltage, and capacity. Here is a list of all the PCBs you could use with 18650s on batteryspace.

Here are the specs for the one I used and I will explain what everything means...

Electric performance:

Overcharge protection voltage for single cell: 4.35V
Over discharge protection voltage for single cell: 2.40V
Over current detection protection: 4-6A
Supply current: Max 30uA
Short circuit protection
Protection circuitry resistance: <=50mohms

The PCB prevents overcharging because the delicate lithium ion chemistry of the battery can be damaged if charged with too high a voltage and the PCB will cut power to the cells if you did so. This should not be a problem if you charge with a smart balance charger. If you charge a cell with 4.2 volts, then the cell voltage will never rise above 4.2 volts, even if you charged the cell for weeks. You still don't want to charge a cell beyond the point at which it is charged. A smart charger will turn off once it has finished charging.

Many batteries can be discharged all the way to zero volts, this is not one of them. If the voltage of a lithium ion battery dropped to zero, or even below 2 volts, it would be damaged, and would never charge back up. Cell phones have this same protection. If you measured the voltage of a "dead" cell phone battery it would probably read 2.5 volts.

Over drain protection is necessary because this is a small PCB with tiny components and can only handle so much current. It shuts down to save itself when drawing between 4 and 6 amps.

Supply current is the current draw from the electronics on the PCB. It is practically nothing and will not drain your battery.

Short circuit protection means the PCB will turn off if it detected a short; if a wire became disconnected or if the wires crossed.

Protection circuitry resistance is the resistance caused by the PCB. All circuitry produces a little resistance. Again the drain is so little you will not notice it.

The words Rockwell RW9161 batteries and cells are used interchangeably but the difference is that a cell is the most indivisible part of the battery which stores power and a battery can be made of many cells. This battery is made of 16 cells. The configuration is called 4S4P. That means 4 series and 4 parallel. 1S4P means the capacity is multiplied by four but the voltage remains the same. 4S1P means capacity remains the same but voltage is multiplied by four. 4S4P mean this is a battery 4 times the voltage and 4 times the capacity of a single cell. The newest 18650s are 2.6 amp hour. 4S1P is 16.8 volts and 2.6 amp hour. 4S2P is 16.8 volts and 5.2 amp hour. 4S4P is 16.8 volts 10.4 amp hour. Given that these are used batteries I will give it a more modest 8 amp hour rating. 18650s fall to 80% capacity after 200 cycles. You could test the exact capacity on yours if you had a watt meter.

The cells are a common format, and therefore widely available and cheap, called 18650s because they are 18mm by 65mm. They use 6800 18650s in the Tesla Roadster! My brother works at a university where he has access to an e-waste dumpster. Old laptops are often powered by these cells. Often you can look up the date of manufacture and capacity by looking up ID numbers on the cells. There is no way to tell how many cycles they have been through but the savings are so great over new ones that it is easy to ignore most lack-of-charge problems.

There are 18650s all over the net which claim capacities all the way up to 4.2 amp hour and they are half the price of the ones on batteryspace. The highest capacity 18650s on batteryspace is 2.6 amp hour. I called a tech guy and asked him about these 4.2 amp hour Ultrafire 18650s. He said he never heard of Ultrafire and that 2.6 amp hour cells have been the industry standard for years. I haven't tried the Ultrafire batteries and I am not sure if they would work for this project. You can read more about them on Candlepower Forums .

New cells are 7.25 dollars each new on batteryspace here so I saved 116 dollars by finding used ones. If you can't find old batteries for free you can sometimes find used 18650s on ebay.
If you bought a pack off of batteryspace it would be wrapped in shrink wrap and the cells would be spot welded together. This makes them a little smaller and lighter than my battery but they are unserviceable. Professional pack builders use spot welding machines.  Here is video of one in action. Here is home made spot welder. You could also try tab welding. Here is a video.  This is easier and cheaper than spot welding but not as easy or as safe as Rockwell WA3520 battery holders.

Battery holders are a much better option because you can remove cells easily if they die. This is very likely since we are using used batteries. You can get battery holders here . You will need 4 of them. Play around with the shipping options. There are around 10 different ways to ship and I don't remember which is the cheapest.

Solder the contacts in the back together so all the positives are connected to the other positives and do the same with the negatives. In the end you will have two wires coming out, one pos and one neg. There are 4 cells in this holder but it will act as one cell once it is connected to the PCB. This batteries in this holder will be in a 1S4P configuration.

You could use any number of cells provided you have a number divisible by 4. If you had 8 four-cell battery holders and 32 cells you could make a 4S8P pack. If you only had 4 cells you could make a 4S1P pack.

I happened to have a little file bin just the right size for the guts of the battery. You can use anything. I recommend something to keep the batteries still so they don't shake apart. There are 32 places where the batteries are held there by nothing but springs. The wires could shake out of the terminal blocks as well. Screw them in tightly. This is just a small price to pay for serviceability.

I used some nuts and bolts to connect the terminal blocks to the project box. Use any size that will fit through the terminal blocks.

Put thin plastic or some sort of insulation between the layers of batteries. The battery holders are covered with pointy metal objects which could cause a short.

The best way I have found for wiring everything together is to use European Style terminal Blocks. As I put the pack together for the first time I wired it together in all kids of upside down and backwards ways before getting it right. Having screw type terminals greatly facilitated my trial and error assembly.

You cannot electrocute yourself with 16.8 volts but you could get a burn. You could damage your cells or PCB as well. Take necessary precautions.

This is technically a 14.4 volt battery. It ranges in voltage between 9.6 and 16.8 volts depending on its state of charge. 14.4 volts is in the middle, its nominal voltage. Follow this guide and everything should turn out fine. Once you are done there will still be no power coming out of P+ and P-. We will fix that in step 7.

To be more clear I don't mean individual 18650 cells here. I mean 4 18650s in a battery holder. That is a single cell as far as the PCB is concerned.

Cell 1 + goes to B+
Cell 1 - goes to B1-
Cell 2 + goes to B1-
Cell 2 - goes to B2-
Cell 3 + goes to B2-
Cell 3 - goes to B3-
Cell 4 + goes to B3-
Cell 4 - goes to B-
wires to main power are connected to P+ and P-

To charge the battery you find some 4S JXT type plugs. You can get them here . Put the red wire in at the same place where Cell 1 pos and B pos from the PCB are wired into the terminal block. Wire the rest of the black wires in order to the rest of the cells. 

This site is where I got the wiring diagram and shows different ways of wiring of batteries with balance leads.

There are two ways to charge a battery like this. You can either apply 4.2 volts to individual cells or you can apply 16.8 volts to the whole battery. While the latter is more simple, in this case the former is better because we are using used cells. When new packs are made, they all use new batteries of the same amp hour capacity. This way they can be charged hundreds of times without going out of balance. However, balancing will extend the service life of any pack. With our pack, the batteries are in various states of wear and amp hour capacity, therefore balancing is a must. A balanced battery is one in which all the cells remain the same voltage.

Let me explain how packs can become unbalanced and why that is really bad. Batteries will inevitably wear our at slightly different rates. Say the voltage of each cell in your pack is 4.2 volts after charging when new.

Cell 1 is 4.2
Cell 2 is 4.2
Cell 3 is 4.2
Cell 4 is 4.2
Whole battery is 16.8 volts

Now say one of the batteries has started to wear out. They manifest their wear by sometimes refusing to charge all the way to 4.2 volts. Now cell 4 only charges to 3.8 volts. The charger doesn't know this but still charges to 16.8 volts and the other cells are charged higher to compensate.

Cell 1 is 4.3
Cell 2 is 4.3
Cell 3 is 4.3
Cell 4 is 3.8
Whole battery is 16.8 volts

You can see how one bad cell could destroy the good ones because the others are overcharged. Balance chargers never charge cells above 4.2 volts and they can tell you if one cell refuses to charge completely. My charger has four lights and shows blue for fully charged and red for not there yet. They make a volt meter here that is perfect for monitoring the health of cells.

Balance chargers are more common in hobby batteries.  People use lithium polymer (LIPO for short) batteries to power model helicopters, airplanes, boats, etc.  LIPOs are cheaper and tougher, better for surviving crashes.  They require more balancing then lithium ion.  Some have C rates of 50!  That means a 5 amp hour battery could supply 250 amps and completely discharge in only a few minutes!  The chemistries are almost the same so the chargers are interchangeable.  I suggest looking through Hobbyking so you know what all is out there.  They have an especially dizzying array of chargers.

When I first wired everything together I was worried to find that even though I had everything wired correctly and the batteries were charged, the PCB was not working. I got it to work finally when I applied 16.8 volts to the P+ and P- terminals on the PCB. That's because this PCB was designed to be charged serially, with 16.8 volts. I didn't want to do that for reasons I've already described. You have to trick the PCB into thinking it is being charged through P+ and P-. I used a variable power supply to jump the PCB. I touched the wires to the PCB for just a second and this activated the PCB.

I discovered I had to do the same thing if a wire came loose and the PCB lost connectivity to one of the cells. This is a fail safe in the PCB. It turns off so there are no shorts. The PCB assumes you must have reconnected the wire if you are attempting to charge the battery. Lastly, you have to jump the PCB if the battery goes dead from running out of juice. If you never let the battery run completely dry and the batteries do not become disconnected then you don't have to jump it at all (aside from the first time).

You hear a lot about C ratings when you start building battery packs. C means capacity and it represents whatever your battery capacity happens to be. If I have an 8 amp hour battery and I charge it at 8 amps, then it is charging at 1C and would finish charging in one hour. If I charged it at 2 amps, the rate of my Hextronics charger, then it would be charging at one quarter C, and would charge in 4 hours. If I drain the battery at 8 amps it will last for an hour; that is a drain of 1C.

Battery capacity is also measured in watt hours. To get watt hours you use a formula (Watts= Volts x Amps) to multiply capacity (8 amp hours) with voltage (14.4) to get 115 watt hours. It will run something using 1 watt for 115 hours or any other equal ratio. Of course that is its theoretical run time. Actual time will be less. Calculating remaining battery capacity based on current drain is complex and inexact. If you want to learn more read through Battery University .

You will need a way to plug it into something eventually. I used RCA plugs from radio shack. The gauge of the wire and quality of the contacts are more than enough for the 1.5 amps max I draw from my pack. You may want something more substantial for higher draw.

You generally don't want to charge above 1C. If you did the battery could wear prematurely or catch on fire.  Also, the maximum continuous current draw possible from this battery is 12 amps. I calculate that from the ratings of a single 18650 which is 1.5C.  1.5 multiplied by 8 amp hours is 12 amps.  Of course the batteries could handle this but not the wires. I used small wires in mine because I don't draw very much current from it. For higher drain use bigger wires. Look up a table of wire gauges and current capacity to pick the right wires. Use the smallest wires possible which can still handle the current. Also use threaded wire because it's easier to work with.

This charger is "smart" because it monitors the voltage of the battery as it charges. It would not charge if it detected dead cells (below 2 volts) or if the voltage was already above 4.2 volts.

To be clear I am not talking about balance charging. This is something else. You will inevitable have one cell which has higher capacity than all the other cells. They will drop in voltage at different rates. One cell will drop below 2.4 volts before the others, then the whole battery will shut down. Once dead, if there is a large difference in voltage between lowest voltage and highest voltage cell, you should take two cells from the highest voltage cell and swap them with two cells of the lowest voltage cell. That way the weakest link will not be so weak and your battery will last longer.

Even better would be to replace the lowest voltage batteries with different ones if available.

If your battery shorts, it will most likely heat up and smell like fried electronics. That's what happened to mine a few days ago. It was an easy fix actually. I needed to more insulation between the stacks of batteries

However, worst case scenario, it could catch on fire when you are not at home and burn your house down. That doesn't mean this is a terribly dangerous project, you just have to be careful. Many projects on this site could end in fires. Only take on this project if you have a good idea of what you are doing and understand the risks.

A simple precaution is to break the battery in while it is in a bucket of sand or on a bit of concrete at least 8 feet from anything combustible. By breaking in I mean charge it and discharge it a few times to make sure it works with no problems.

So there you have it. Once you make one battery you will have the confidence to make packs in any configuration you need.

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April 17 2017 2 17 /04 /April /2017 00:29

A cordless, electric lawnmower is considered environmentally-friendly because it does not contribute to smog and carbon dioxide, unlike its gasoline-powered counterparts. A cordless mower also is much quieter than a gas mower and eliminates the need for oil changes, air filters, tune-ups and spark plugs. The primary maintenance for such a mower is to charge its battery. A rechargeable mower AEG tool battery lasts about five to seven years, at which point it needs to be replaced. The new battery must be charged before it is installed.

Place the cordless mower's new, rechargeable battery in a dry, cool area, such as a garage or workshop. Put the battery on a workbench or scrap piece of lumber on the floor. The elevation prevents moisture from touching the battery while it charges.

Plug one end of the battery charger's connection line into the mower battery's receptacle or socket, pushing the plug fully into the receptacle or socket. Attach the connection line's opposite end into the battery charger.

Plug the battery charger into a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) electrical outlet. The plug has two flat metal pieces and a round, ground piece that fit into an appropriate, GFCI electrical outlet.

Observe the lights on the battery charger. The power light and the charger light are one when the charger operates. When the charging light turns from red to green, the battery is fully charged and ready to use. Charging normally takes about 15 hours.

Unplug the charger and its connection line from the fully charged lawnmower battery and from the electrical outlet.

Lift or push the Milwaukee tool battery lock on your cordless mower to remove the latches from its battery box. Pick up the battery by its top handle, and place it on the top motor cover. Plug the mower battery cord into the battery's bottom with the front of the battery in view. An arrow usually is on the front of the battery.

Place the battery in the battery box, and push the locking lever forward or downward, depending on the mower's make and model.

Things You Will Need


A cordless mower works best on a flat lawn that measures no more than 8,000 square feet. The battery's weight makes the mower a bit difficult to push up inclines.


After using your cordless mower, store it in a cool, dry area, and connect it to the battery charger. Storing batteries that are not fully charged lessens their lifespan.

Charge a lawnmower's batteries only with the charger that was included with the mower.

Use replacement Paslode batteries that are identical to the original mower battery. Batteries than have a lower voltage than the original battery can turn the mower blades at a slower speed, making the mower inefficient.

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April 14 2017 6 14 /04 /April /2017 23:54

Cordless drills are versatile, durable tools that can be found on construction sites, in garages and shops everywhere. One of the things that makes cordless drills so popular is that they can be taken almost anywhere. Just make sure that you have a fully charged Makita tool battery and spare if you plan on working late. Cordless drills have almost (but not completely) replaced the old corded models.

The most common power pack in a cordless drill--or even most cordless tools for that matter is the nickel cadmium (NiCd) battery. A battery is generally made up of two dissimilar metals (in this case nickel oxide hydroxide and cadmium) in an electrolyte ("battery acid"). In a battery, the chemical reaction between the two metals and the electrolyte cause electrons to flow from one side to the other.

In a cordless drill, the NiCd Bosch tool battery supplies current to a small DC motor which does the work of the drill.

In any electric motor, there will be an armature (also called a rotor), a commutator, brushes, a permanent magnet and an axle. When direct current is applied to a DC motor, it creates an electromagnetic field in the windings of the armature. The difference in magnetic forces between the armature and the permanent magnet cause the armature to turn. As the armature turns, the commutator acts as a switch that reverses the current in the armature (and the brush connects the commutator to the current). This reversal of current keeps the armature turning.

The armature turns the axle and in a cordless drill the axle turns a transmission. The transmission has several gears that turn the spindle that does the actual Dewalt tool battery action.


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April 11 2017 3 11 /04 /April /2017 23:21

Black & Decker is one of the leading manufacturers of power tools. The company makes a wide

variety of handheld tools, including power drills and electric screwdrivers, as well as

items used for gardening tasks. Each Black & Decker battery uses one of three types of

batteries: lithium ion, sealed lead acid or nickel cadmium. An 18V battery is one of the

nickel cadmium batteries. Lithium ion batteries are lighter and smaller than the 18V

batteries and can hold a charge longer. Before you replace the battery, determine if your

tool will still work.

Remove the existing battery from your power tool. Look at the inside of the tool and find

the model number. The model number consists of three letters followed by a series of

numbers. You can typically find the model number on the inside of the tool or along one of

the sides.

Read the amount of voltage on the RYOBI battery. The battery itself has a small label with the

voltage listed. In most Black & Decker tools, the battery comes out for fast recharging. If

you have an 18V battery, you should see the designation listed on the label.

Compare your existing 18V battery to the lithium ion batteries available from Black &

Decker. The company makes several lithium ion batteries that fit the different power tools

that come with that type of battery. Your battery might look like a large block, a wide

tube or have a raised tube attached to a block base. The new lithium battery must be the

same size and shape as your current 18V battery.

Purchase a lithium ion battery that works with your power tool. When you find a new

battery, it should state on the packaging or the included paperwork which tools the battery

works with. Only use a battery designed for your tool.

Charge the new battery on its included charger, as it won't have a charge when it comes out

of the package. Slide the new battery into the base of your power tool until you hear a

soft clicking sound, which indicates that it's in the proper position for use.

If you cannot find a lithium ion battery that matches your tool, contact Black & Decker.

Give the company your model number and ask about replacing the Milwaukee battery.

Do not use a lithium ion battery if your tool isn't compatible with the battery. You risk

shorting out the tool, which keeps it from working.

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April 10 2017 2 10 /04 /April /2017 18:39

Cordless 18-volt drills come with a rechargeable Hitachi tool battery pack. The battery pack is made up of several rechargeable nickel-metal hydride (NiMH) battery cells. After long periods of repetitive recharging, these battery cells will either hold a weak charge or will not hold a charge at all. In either case, it is possible to replace individual or entire rows of NiMH cells in a drill's battery pack. However, doing this yourself requires dismantling the battery pack, which in some cases, means damaging the pack's plastic housing.

Remove the 18V battery pack from the drill's handle or the external battery charger. Release the battery pack by pressing on the release tabs on either side of the pack.

Relocate the battery pack to to a flat work table, preferably in a garage or workspace that is separate from your home. Determine how the battery's outer housing is held together. In many cases, the battery's outer casing is secured by a few Phillips screws or it is one solid piece of plastic. Remove the screws, as necessary, but if the pack's housing is one piece, cut it open to access the battery cells.

Attach a chisel tip soldering iron to a soldering gun. Plug in the gun's power cable and allow the iron to heat up for about 10 minutes. Firmly touch the chisel tip iron to the crease lining the center of the battery pack. Press down firmly on the crease with the iron, and run it along the battery pack's crease to cut open the battery pack's housing. Grasp the top section and remove it from the pack to reveal the internal cells of Panasonic tool battery.

Turn on a voltage meter and touch the red probe to the positive side and the black probe to the negative side of each battery cell. The meter will tell you which cells have a charge and which cells are dead. Note the polarity alignment of the battery cells for when you install new cells.

Touch your heated soldering iron tip where the wire connector's meet each battery cell. Desolder the wire connectors of each dead NiMH cell you want to replace. Remove the desoldered battery cells. In many cases, the cells will be glued together inside the pack. Use a razor blade or similar tool to separate the dead cells from the pack.

Place the replacement NiMH cells inside the cell pack into their appropriate slots. Make sure each AEG battery is aligned properly with the other cells in the pack. Touch the wire connectors to the positive side of each new cell. Use the soldering iron and some fresh solder to attach the wires to each new battery cell.

Place the cell pack back inside the dismantled housing. Place the top section of the battery pack's housing back onto the bottom section of the housing. Replace any retaining Phillips-head screws, as necessary. If you cut open the battery pack's housing, secure the two housing pieces together with a strong plastic adhesive or duct tape.

Performing this procedure yourself is likely to void any warranty that might otherwise be in effect.

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March 22 2017 4 22 /03 /March /2017 13:54

With the large number of portable devices we use every day, it is no wonder that we have a lot of Bosch 2 607 335 735 batteries to recycle. Using rechargeable ones, such as nickel cadmium (NiCad) batteries, cuts down on some of the waste. Unfortunately, even rechargeable ones eventually stop working and need proper disposal. Since nickel cadmium is a known carcinogen for humans, many countries have programs in place to recycle them safely. In most cases these programs are offered free of charge as well.

Consult the Organisation for Economic Co-Operation and Development (OECD)'s website for the most current information on locations where you can dispose of NiCad batteries properly worldwide.

Follow the web links the OECD provides to find out more about existing recycling facilities in your area as well as their hours of operation.

Phone ahead to make sure that the facility you plan to visit with your batteries will be open at the time you choose to visit. While many people try to keep their websites as up-to-date as possible, sometimes that information is not the most current. Speaking to a person on the phone will always give you the most up-to-date information.

In many places, it is illegal to dispose of batteries through any means other than recycling. In the case of NiCad batteries in particular this is because they have the potential to release toxic metals and chemicals if they are not disposed of properly. Check with your local government for rules concerning your area. They may even have a local recycling program set up where you can drop off your Bosch PSR 18 VE-2 batteries at the same time you are taking care of other local governmental business, such as renewing licenses or paying bills.

When recycling nicad batteries, companies that process them can reclaim some of the iron-nickel and cadmium used in their manufacture. These metals are then used in the manufacture of new batteries, steel and other durable household goods.

When recycling your nicad batteries, you may also wonder about recycling other types of batteries in your household. Most automotive parts stores will dispose of your automotive batteries if you drop them off. As for other types of batteries (both rechargeable and otherwise), it is best to check with your local government to see what the current preferred method of disposal is.

When talking about nicad batteries, it is important to note that all nicad batteries are included in this discussion--not just AAAs, AAs and the like. Check your cell phone, digital camera and other small portable electronic devices to see what types of rechargeable batteries they have. As of February 2010, lithium ion and nickel cadmium are the most widely used rechargeable Bosch 2 607 335 414 batteries for these types of devices.


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March 21 2017 3 21 /03 /March /2017 15:14

Nickel Cadmium (Nicad) rechargeable Bosch BAT025 batteries are a popular battery choice for use in appliances, games and tools. Over time, even these long-lasting batteries will use their capacity to hold a charge. Nicad batteries can be repaired, instead of replaced, for even longer use. Zapping the Nicad battery with an electric current will enable a dead rechargeable battery to hold a longer charge.

Use the battery tester or digital multimeter to test the dead Nicad battery to make sure it is fully discharged. If it still holds a partial charge, continue to drain the battery in normal use or use the discharge function found on some appliances and electronics.

Find both the positive and negative nodes of the dead Ni CAD battery. The positive node will be raised, and the negative node should be flat.

Protect yourself during this procedure by wear safety goggles, gloves and a long-sleeved shirt.

Begin repairing the Nicad battery by attaching the black alligaotr clamp from the 12-volt charger to the negative end of the battery.

Touch the red alligator clamp to the positive end of the battery three or four times, using light taps. Sparks may be emitted from the Bosch 2 607 335 250 battery during this process.

Immediately hold the red and black clamps on the battery, releasing them after a maximum of two seconds.

Test the battery to see if it has been completely charged. Repeat process if necessary until the battery is fully charged.

Be prepared to wear safety gear during this process to avoid injury.

The Nicad battery repair process is best performed by someone familiar in working with electricity.

Overcharging the Bosch BAT011 battery can lead to fire, explosion or battery acid spray.

Individuals attempting this process need to understand the danger and understand that they perform the process at their own risk to injury and damage to self, property and others.

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